Category: 2011

Love the city! Great atmosphere & friendly people. We stayed at a hotel right on Union Square – very central to everything & the major shopping area!! Today there was an art exhibition by SF Artists Guild in the square so lots to see, music & art.

Spent a great morning riding the cable cars – up hill & down dale & on several lines – excellent way to get around, see the city streets & feel the culture. The cable car drivers do an excellent job – braking & negotiating the hills, people & other traffic! 2 interesting incidents – one to get a driver to move his parked car from a corner so we could get around (much bell clanging) & the other , a stop on top of a steep hill to wait for a blind gent using a stick to come up the hill & get of the lines. Watched the traffic negotiate the “crookedest street in the world” – 8 tight hairpin bends @ 5km/hour- it’s a very short steep section of the street with manicured gardens & a fabulous view over the city & the Bay Bridge.

Lunched at the legendary Cheesecake Factory – 30 years old & still going strong! Huge menu including 34 different types of cheescake – all look stunning! I had a great salad – best of the trip & Mark enjoyed chicken Bang Bang! Prices very good- recommend a visit!

Got a chance to stroll the shops in avo before heading for the airport for homeward flight. Looking forward to another visit to SF!

San Francisco Photos

Cruising time is over – such a peaceful way to travel – nice to have a base & no unpacking every few days! Has been a great trip along the Volga & Baltic Canals. Have made some great new friends. Made it out of Russia with only a little challenge & back to Dublin via Copenhagen.

Great to see Micah, Matt & Kat again. Micah has started really “talking”, laughing, blowing raspberries & he is delightful. I so want to bring him home! Nice catch-up times again, walks and dinner out. Unfortunately the Irish weather put a bit of a damper (lol) on our trip into the Wicklow Mountains to Glendalough but nice to see the scenery and mist on the hills.

On to San Francisco!

San Francisco – Day1

Sun & no wind – touring the city! Local landmarks & the famous fog! It comes & goes at will- here a minute, gone a minute- literally but managed some fine views of the city & of course Golden Gate Bridge.

The tour took us up the hills & down again – the streets are very pretty with trees & closely stacked row houses – many painted bright colours & with intricate designs & decorations especially the old Victorian houses. Enjoyed seeing the Painted Ladies”, Nob Hill, cable cars, street cars, sea lions at Pier 39, Alcatraz Island, Coit Tower & the crooked Lombard Street. Hot dogs & pretzels in Golden Gate Park. Clam Chowder in a sourdough bun at the famous Boudin Sourdough Factory.

Will investigate further tomorrow & ride the cable cars around town!

St Petersburg was founded by Peter the Great and is known as the ‘Venice of the North’ as the city encompasses islands & canals – modelled on Amsterdam. The initial drab weather has given way to some sunshine & the city looks very picturesque now. Most buildings in the central city are brownish in colour & low profile boxes lining the streets – many only 3-4 stories high as restricted to not be higher than the Winter Palace back in 18^th century – now profiles low to protect heritage & UNESCO status. Some buidlings are bright yellow/blue reputedly to give impression of sunshine – they say St Petersburg only has 60 days of sunshine each year!

We docked on the main River Neva – 22 bridges, all but the newest & highest next to us are draw bridges which open every night at about 1am for a few hours to allow ships to pass. Our city tour took us to the major landmarks – more cathedrals, harbour views, past squares and parks, statues, the Fort and the impressive squares and numerous palaces, many now museums.

It is quite a contrast to be back in the city after days sailing through picturesque wooded countryside & past little villages with tiny houses & gardens. The traffic again fairly awful on a weekday. Have noticed everywhere in Russia there is dust on everything especially the cars and things do look a little dilapidated. Housing in the area where we are is utilitarian apartment blocks but there were some impressive neighbourhoods as we came through the suburbs.

The highlight of day 1 was attending a ballet performance – Swan Lake at the Hermitage Theatre. Stunning dancing, costumes, scenery in the private & intimate theatre of Catherine II.

Day 2 – tour of the magnificent Hermitage Museum (5 buildings) – incredible wealth seen in the buildings, decor, art, furnishings. Impressive parquet and inlaid floors & doors, sweeping staircases, finely painted ceilings – murals & designs, marble pillars, urns & furniture, painted and sculptured ceilings, gold leaf in abundance, chandeliers forever (largest weighs 3 tonne), irreplaceable art masterpieces, unique pieces like the peacock clock, all sorts of collections and so on. The mind boggles when considering the individual worth of each item in the 3 million piece exhibit let alone buildings etc. (And that’s just one palace in St Petersburg!) Much of the art was saved from destruction & pilfering during the war as it was sent to Siberia!!

The rain came down while we were in the museum and magically stopped as we stepped aboard the hydrofoil heading to Peterhof Gardens. Enjoyed 100 hectares of gardens built for Peter the Great in beautiful sunshine. Modelled on Versailles the gardens are outstanding – includes 14 palaces, numerous fountains, more gold and the gardens themselves bordering the Gulf of Finland but within sight of St Petersburg. Peter had a sense of humour and several fountains are trick fountains – designed to spray randomly at people walking the paths or sitting on seats. Mark cooled off in one or two! Well worth a visit. Decided to buy some books today to help capture what we saw and what we missed!

Day 3 – Wow- gilded out by the Catherine Palace and all the 24k gold leaf. Amazing! You have to see to appreciate & I can’t describe! Fabulous gardens here also.

We really enjoyed an afternoon canal cruise around the “Golden Ring” – some 70 canals in St Petersburg and over 500 bridges. Our course took us past the major places of interest and under some very low bridges – literally had to stay sitting and stoop on a couple of occasions! Great way to see the city and enjoy it!

St Petersburg like much of Russia we saw is a city of contrasts – good to see some modern buildings, impressive motorway systems and enjoy the friendly people who welcomed us and also the rich history.

 St Petersburg and Russia Photos

Sept 1^st is the Day of Knowledge in Russia and celebrates the return to school & universities – one explanation for some of the Moscow traffic jams was parents rushing to buy uniforms!

Today’s port of call was Mandrogi a reconstructed village built on the shore of the Svir River (connecting Europe’s 2 largest lakes) to illustrate the traditions & lifestyle of North Russia’s past. The original village was burned down during WW2. While somewhat cultivated the setting, wooden houses and crafts were interesting with activities such as painting elaborate matrushkas, ceramics, lacemaking, weaving and decorating birch bark boxes. A picnic was planned but the weather did not oblige!!

We are now heading to St Petersburg, again passing beautiful scenery with willows, alders, birches and pines. Some of the trees which grow right down to the river edge, are beginning to turn yellow and it makes for a pleasant picture despite the rain. Even the locks have attractive approaches lined with trees & some flower gardens – the locks themselves and the hydro power station today look in need of maintenance! The pine trees in the area were once used to build ships for the Russian fleet – still see several logging operations along the river. Little villages pop up in the clearings beside the river – small rustic houses, some painted bright colours, some with large gardens, bath houses and boatsheds which slope down to the river.

 Russia Photos

Woke up this morning sitting up high in a lock with beautiful views of the forest, some mist & sunrise. This lock was 18m wide and the ship is 17m wide so a close fit! We had been through 5 other locks in the night being lowered about 13 metres each time.

Kizhi is a very small island well known for its unique wooden architecture, and the most northern part of our trip. The island is located at the top end of Lake Onega (2^nd largest lake in Europe & known for its’ purity). It is a UNESCO site. The Transfiguration Cathedral (1714) is the most spectacular attraction – all pine wood, no nails used in construction & has 22 different sized cupola sheathed in aspen shingles. Was overcast with some rain so not the best for showing off the beautiful colours known to reflect off the shingles in various lights. However, very impressive when you consider graceful lines, details and all wood construction! Unfortunately the ground underneath is sinking so some serious repair work is underway & we couldn’t view the inside of the cathedral.

 Russia Photos

Out in the provinces – a very different view – Goritsky only has 600 inhabitants and Kirillov not a lot bigger – low socio-economic, small, old wooden houses, no running water inside any but the newest houses, bath-house in the backyard, houses heated by a stove, some painted lovely bright colours. Homes have vege gardens and grow wide variety of food and also lots of foraging in forests for mushrooms & berries. Only a few types of mushrooms out of a large number are edible and apparently the cranberry liquer is deadly in anything but small doses! Very very cold here in winter! None too warm today! Ded Moroz – the Russian Santa Claus lives here in nearby town of Velikiy Ustyug.

Visited a wooden house restoration centre where old houses are restored using traditional methods – taken apart, each piece numbered, replaced if necessary and refitted then taken apart again for relocation and reinstitution. Also visited a childrens’ creative art centre aimed at revival and teaching of traditional arts such as use of birch bark for models and toys, lace making, bead work & other. Tried traditional Russian gingerbread (Pryaniki) today too – more like a sweet bun & not ginger as we know it. Did not try famous Vologda butter – 83% fat with a nutty taste I’m told.

Last stop was a very old monastery – fortified walls around 10 hectares! In 17^th century was strongest fortress in Northern Russia. Once had 500 monks, now only 6! Monks carried out labouring tasks to boost the workforce. Beautiful grounds and buildings but what a job to restore with very low incomes.

This area of Northern Russia is very wooded with large numbers of animals – bears, squirrels, wolves, grouse, ducks etc so popular for hunting and a number of small houses are kept as second homes for this purpose. Very picturesque and vast.

Entertained in evening by 2 very talented young musicians playing balalaika and accordion – both have won national competitions – moonlight on the boat as musicians and photographers to help pay for further studies! Have purchased CD so Russian music at home to accompany Russian dinners.

 Russia Photos

Uglich

Champagne and caviar for breakfast. Uglich is a very old town dating from 973 (records from 1,149!). Known as the place where 8 year old Dimitry, the last of the Romanoff line died in mysterious circumstances. Went through several more locks in the night & today – process is much quicker- think first time we followed a very slow boat which we overtook today! Scenery remains picturesque with modest and magnificent homes/dacha along the way. Town tour today and shopping time – Uglich is famous for its own watch factory- “Chaika” and great selection of souvenirs – matryoshka (nesting dolls), Christmas decorations, lacquered boxes and scarves. The dolls now come in every possible design including traditional, folklore, animals, football heroes and presidents! We also had the opportunity to listen to a magnificent male arcapella group- the deepest voices I have heard!

The Volga River & its environs are well used by people here but with so much space it seems like not too many people around.

We are getting grief from the Aussies on board – have reminded them that their coach is a NZ’er and that their wins have not been frequent of late! We think we are the only kiwis on board but holding our own.

I’m learning Russian – can’t write to you as I don’t have the right keyboard but can say a few basic phrases!

Yaroslavl

Affectionately was known as “Bear Corner” where Prince Yaroslav wrestled with & killed a bear. Historically important – once the capital, an important merchant town and cultural centre. Has Russia’s oldest drama theatre – Volkov Drama Theatre (1750). Lots more beautiful churches (ABC!) & monastery where we were treated to a bell-ringing display. Saw a wee wooden replica village set up here for bees but they were moved out so as not a danger to tourists!

Also today went to a children’s puppet theatre and a studio where they make incredibly beautiful lacquered boxes. The scenes/designs are painted with one-hair brushes and lacquered in layers many times to create 3D effects!

The largest tyre producing factory in Russia is located here. Also have a farmers market and I visited the local supermarket – vast array of goods well displayed – nuts, cheeses, pickles, sausages, chocolates, fruits, vege etc.

 Russia Photos

Sailed from Moscow city along the Moscow canal to join the Volga River. I don’t quite know what I expected but the scenery is beautiful – extremely treed banks with cycle and walking paths, the domes of churches poking through, little villages & dacha tucked alongside & a marina or two. People are out enjoying the countryside – fishing, picnicking, camping, water-skiing and sailing. It really is stunning. Not crowds but small groups and pairs scattered about. Late evening we negotiated the first of 17 locks – us and another large riverboat – took about 2 hours to complete manoeuvre.

Russia Photos

Wow! You have not seen or experienced traffic jams until you have been to Moscow! Absolutely unbelievable – not just once or twice either, most days when we have travelled into the city except today Saturday was a dream run! Otherwise a fabulous city making strides. People are very friendly, helpful & keen to welcome you.

The city is vast – they said 4^th largest in the world – some 12 million plus 1-2 million illegal immigrants. City has a long & interesting history – first mentioned in 1,147!! So culturally, architecturally & historically fascinating.

Have been out & about each day from our river boat “River Victoria” docked at Northern River Port – so much to see (while sitting in traffic!) &  including:

• The Kremlin – actually 27 walled hectares with palace complex, parliamentary administration building, Presidential office, multi-tiered towers, cathedrals, icons, frescoes, bell towers, tombs, tsar bell & cannon, stunning displays of costumes, jewellery, Faberge eggs, armour & weapons etc etc. I loved the carriages of the 18^th century – incredible preservation – including Empress’ “Dr Zhivago” style wooden sleigh – took 3 days to travel from St Petersburg to Moscow using 800 horses in teams of 23 at a time! Woe betide if you step off the payment though – the whistle blows and the arms wave…Part of the Kremlin walls form one side of Red Square.
• Red Square – with the iconic St Basil’s Cathedral (actually 10 cathedrals!), kilometre zero, State Museum, City duma, GUM department store – 3 huge levels & all the brands. Called Red Square because it means beautiful in Russian not because of red Kremlin walls
• Cathedrals & churches – gold domes, icons & distinctive Greek orthodox designs
• Bow Hill War Memorial – includes 6 fantastic dioramas depicting WWII scenes & Victory Memorial
• Vorobyovy Gory – hill with great panorama of Moscow
• The Metro – took a series of rides to see the fabulous station decorations – murals, sculptures and crystal lights. All scrupulously clean – gleaming & no rubbish in sight
• Old Arbat Street & Tverskaya Street, Lenin Avenue
• Novodevichiy Convent (viewed from beautiful park – also here saw Barbara Bushs’ gift to Children of Moscow – brass sculpture – “Ducks in a Row”
• Bolshoi Theatre, Karl Marx statue
• Numerous other statues, some beautiful parks & gardens
• Old vs new Moscow – sculptures,  high rises old & new
• Great concert by Russian Folk group using traditional instruments, song and beautiful costumes.

Once again we are being very well looked after – enjoying the river, company, trying to work out the docking hierarchy!

Saturday 27^th

Sailed from Moscow city along the Moscow canal to join the Volga River. I don’t quite know what I expected but the scenery is beautiful – extremely treed banks with cycle and walking paths, the domes of churches poking through, little villages & dacha tucked alongside & a marina or two. People are out enjoying the countryside – fishing, picnicking, camping, water-skiing and sailing. It really is stunning. Not crowds but small groups and pairs scattered about. Late evening we negotiated the first of 17 locks – us and another large riverboat – took about 2 hours to complete manoeuvre.

Russia Photos

 

A fabulous first day enjoying Prague! Many beautiful old romanesque, baroque and gothic buildings of all kinds – churches, commerce, housing. Detailed designs in their steeples, bell towers, plasterwork, intricate line work and are of different colours with characteristic rooflines – see photos. The city is very picturesque, colourful, vibrant and like all these cities full of fascinating history. Many streets & roads are cobbled and all manner of transport can be seen.

The banner picture above is of Prague Castle (from 9th century) which is vast – 52 hectares!!  and includes palaces, cathedrals, several courtyards, the Presidential offices, shops and cafes and also has a surrounding vineyard. The views over Prague city from the castle are very beautiful and panoramic.

The Old Town Square has the impressive Astronomical Clock in the Town Hall, Tyn Cathedral & other memorable buildings as well as lovely wee stalls and numerous food stations with all sorts of delicacies – I’m saving up for the local sweet treat tomorrow! For lunch we had a typical Czech meal of pork, dumplings, sweet cabbage and a beer – all very nice and in the shade of a garden bar – once again trying to keep cool!

Enjoyed a river cruise going under the Charles Bridge -had previously walked across and admired the architecture from the Vltava River which flows for miles joining many countries and changing its name along the way.

A late evening stroll along the river and back through the Jewish quarter – lovely lighting at the Castle and various buildings – still very warm!

Day 2- wandering the meandering streets again admiring the buildings! I also visited some cathedrals- pretty amazing and some impressive organs! All seem to offer concerts of every kind but we will wait til Russia. Enjoyed yummy salads in the Old Market Square. Tried Trdeknik- a local sweet treat- made with a pastry wound onto a skewer by a special machine and then roasted over hot coals-  rolled in lemon, nuts, cinnamon and sugar & served warm- yum!

Staying in a 13th century gothic style hotel – modernised but still retaining character. Was once part of a former convent & used as a private aristocratic residence. Part of the convent is now houses a museum- the other cavernous rooms are empty but show the architecture of the time and are blissfully cool on a hot afternoon.

Prague Photos