Category: Africa 2009

Having a weekend free time we had decided to check out Zanzibar (the spice islands) just off the coast of Dar es Salaam, Tanzania. Flew in from Nairobi on Friday afternoon – the airport was slightly organised chaos, long queues for immigration, baggage unloaded 1 bag at a time onto table – no carousel, then customs wanted to have a cursory look in every bag, once outside the door beset by people trying to sell all sorts of wares, take your bags or get you into a taxi! There was a desk organising the taxis but that only resulted in getting into the most decrepit taxi I have ever ridden in! for the short journey into Stone Town to Tembo Hotel. Was an interesting experience for a couple of days – nice pool and restaurant patio looking over the beach, good reasonably priced food. The beach in Stone Town is busy with dhows and motor driven boats plying tourist trades to nearby islands and diving expeditiones etc as well as for smallish freight ferries which drive onto the beach and load and unload with some difficulties across the sand. So plenty of goings on to watch.

Going into the narrow streets of the town was also an experience – dozens of shops selling similar ranges of crafts and each one with several people in the street greeting you and encouraging you to come in and buy, as well as street vendors of all sorts including a guy trying to sell CDs who walked alongside me crooning one of the tunes for several minutes even though I indicated I was not interested.

Spiced coffee was another highlight of Zanzibar. A relaxing and interesting weekend – another visit would have to check out the resorts and nicer beaches of the other side of the island but needs more than a weekend for that. Sunday afternoon flew over to Dar es Salaam and checked into Swiss Garden Hotel where we stay for the week – a very pleasant hotel of about a dozen units in a garden setting. They set the table for however many have booked for dinner – so you get to meet and talk with other guests – a number were other expats on aid and developmetnt work so some interesting conversations.

Zanzibar Photos

How to summarise a full on week in Rwanda and Burundi visiting projects and work sponsored by cbm!

Rwanda

o    In Kigali, capital of Rwanda met up with Helen Green and Nathalie Vezier, Programme Coordinator cbm East Africa who is our guide for the next week or so.
o    First day Friday visited an orthopaedic and general hospital and school complex run by the Anglican Church an hour out of Kigali. cbm sponsors the orthopaedic work.  Met dozens of children and young people who had had operations for club foot or had plasters set for traumas etc. There was also a rehabilitation department offering ongoing physiotherapy and occupational therapy, as well as a prosthetics department – we witnessed a young man taking his first steps on his new prosthetic leg manufactured there. Other people were involved in small scale income generating crafts and activities.
o    Afternoon back in Kigali Helen and I spent some time viewing the Genocide Memorial Museum – it was very interesting to read and understand a little more about the dreadful events of the 1994 genocide and the conflict between Tutsi and Hutu peoples – when an estimated 1 million mostly Tutsi people were killed in a period of 100 days (as well there were many 1,000s more killed in the period leading up to that time). It was very moving and difficult subject matter to comprehend and to deal with. On the one hand it is amazing now to see the progress in the country with new roads and buildings in evidence everywhere, and outwardly people getting on with and enjoying their lives. However underneath there appears to be tensions which still continue unresolved.
o    Saturday morning picked up by Piet a young Belgian ophthalmologist and driven an hour out of Kigali in a different direction to a large Roman Catholic complex which includes a substantial eye department of Kabgayi Hospital which is sponsored by cbm. We were invited to observe in the theatre for his Saturday list – 8 patients for cataract surgery, and one for exploration following injuries and foreign matter in the eye from a grenade explosion in the market place on Friday night. It was very impressive to see the operating theatre in action – the microscope had two eye sets so we were able to take turns observing the detail of the surgery – a form of cataract surgery – “small incision surgery” is practised where the surgeon makes a small incision and removes the lens badly impacted by cataracts and inserts a replacement lens. As the incision is only small no sutures are required to close it. The average time taken per operation was about 12 minutes. There were two beds in the theatre and as soon as one op was finished Pete immediately changed gloves and moved to the next patient. We talked to several people who were blind due to their cataracts and due to the operation now had sight.
o    Piet very generously invited us to stay at his house for the Saturday and Sunday evenings – so we had a relaxing day on Sunday and took a walk around the hillsides and nearby villages.  Monday morning we were driven by the Kabgayi hospital driver back to Kigali and then out towards the south to cross the border into Burundi at …

Burundi
o    Here we were met by a cbm worker Johannes and a Doctor from the Ministry of Health. The Burundi Ministry of Health have underway a programme of baseline surveys and mass medication where indicated for five Neglected Tropical Diseases.– cbm is contracted to provide technical expertise and implementation of the programme.
o    The team we were to visit were in a very remote area. We travelled all afternoon on rough roads and tracks and had an overnight stop at a very remote township where the guest house at US$6.50 per night did provide a bed and electricity some of the time and a large tub of water in the bathroom area for washing etc. It was fairly basic but adequate. A further two hours drive in the morning to find the team undertaking their survey on this occasion for Trachoma. Communication had gone out a few days earlier and people in a wide surrounding area were bringing the children aged 1 – 9. The team consisted of two supervisors, two nurses and two recorders. It was not a particularly busy day as this was a sparsely populated area – each child had their eyes examined by the nurse using a binocular to examine under their eyelids. It was interesting seeing this operation, but was a lot of time, effort and rough conditions endured given the location of the team.
o    We journeyed on further south gradually on better roads where we met a cbm worker Methodist Minister who heads a community based disability programme with 3 community workers, identifying and supporting people with disabilities. We visited a local medical centre,  a couple of families being supported by the community workers and then the Methodist Hospital from which the programme is based on to Gitega where we visited an optician service, the blind school and hostel and a hostel for people with physical disabilities which are facilities the community workers can refer to as required.
o    The next morning we set off for the drive to Bujumbura the capital city – interesting drive through countryside with crops of tea and coffee and various markets along the way – crossed the watershed between where water flows into the Nile system and the Congo river system. The descent into Bujumbura is a dramatic drop of around 1,000m in about 23 km – like the Kaimais on the Matamata side but longer and without any passing lanes. Numerous large trucks going in both directions, bicycles hurtling down hill laden with produce (bananas, sacks of charcoal etc), cars trying to pass. To get to the top again cyclists would hitch a ride up by holding onto the back of trucks going back up – usually 4 – 5 attached to each truck. The road has a reputation for being one of the most dangerous in the region – added to the traffic issues until about 6 months ago was also a stronghold of rebel soldiers – peace and calm exists at the moment with plenty of government soldiers on patrol.
o    Visited another community based disability service run by the Emanuel Church and sponsored by cbm. We had a briefing with the staff, visited the school for deaf children on the site where they are based and then visited three separate meetings of groups of mothers of children with disabilities. These groups meet regularly for support and information provision but on this day had stayed on longer so we could meet with them – unfortunately they had expected us mid day / early afternoon and the last group we did not get to until after 5.00pm.
o    It was great to see these programmes and some very good working being done, as well as appreciating some of the huge challenges ahead for the country of Burundi and for development programmes. The Burundi way of life appears to be much more individual and small family group orientated and the concept of support groups will take some time to develop.  This is also a society where disability is often literally hidden away – so it is very positive to see groups coming together and the need to support people with disabilities being recognised.
o    At nearly 6.00 made our last appointment with the Ministry of Health where a team had remained at work to meet us. This was a programme addressing onchoceroses (River Blindness) – and is funded principally by the WHO with some sponsorship by cbm. The disease is a waterborne and results in worms entering the body initially causing extreme itching (and damage to skin and tissue as scratching occurs) and eventually the worm progresses to the eyes causing blindness. The treatment is an annual dose of medication which is essentially the same as Ivomectin used in farming in NZ.
o    Thursday we ended this stage of the programme of visits and flew back up to Nairobi, where Helen visited the cbm regional office and web conferenced with cbm HO Germany to debrief on the visits to the Congo, Rwanda and Burundi. It had been a full-on time so we were pleased to then have a few days now to unwind a little.
o    Friday we flew to Zanzibar ( the spice islands just off the coast of Tanzania) for a couple of days change of pace before today, Sunday afternoon, we fly back (30 mins) to Dar Es Salaam ready to begin the next stage of work first thing Monday.

I have long held an ambition to embark on a wildlife safari – and I have not been disappointed – a really excellent experience.

For me there was both the great diversity of the African landscape, and seeing a lot of wild animals in their own habitat. We visited four National Parks all quite different landscapes and vegetation and drove the distances between the Parks – being in the ‘middle’ of the Serengeti Plains where grasslands stretched in every direction almost as far as the eye could see was a very moving experience. I was fascinated to begin to understand how the various species interact – who eats who and who respects who and how and why.

We travelled all told probably about 800 or so km – about 75% on unsealed roads bumpy rutted tracks in many cases. It was a real adventure getting there and back – transport was in long wheelbased Toyota Landcruisers – not the same shape as we have lots of in NZ – longer and more boxy – but very efficient and reasonably comfortable machines for the flogging they get being pushed hard in such harsh conditions.  Driven by Tanzanian guides who speak reasonably good English and our guy anyway had a real love of the animals and was very knowledgeable about all the animals birds etc we encountered.

Highlights – The Serengeti, the Rift Valley escarpment, and Ngorongoro Crater. Seeing up close lions, elephants, zebra and giraffes, and in the distance Cheetas, Leopards and Rhinos.

Photographs – I have uploaded a reasonably large selection of pictures into the gallery.  Tanzanian Simba Safari views the whole selection presented in the order in which we experienced them.

Day by Day Account – The safari started from The Mountain Lodge, Arusha with a guided walk around a local lake – not stunning but good exercise after the flight – the main excitement was when we disturbed a huge lizard which was going to harm no one but gave everyone a bit of a wake up! There was a group of around 40 people – 5 or 6 in each landcruiser – we gradually worked out who was travelling with who. I had excellent travelling companions in Paul and Carly from London (on their honeymoon – the safari and then climbing Mt Kilimanjaro) and Steve and Bev, couple about my age from Birmingham. Also got to know a number of people from the other vehicles as well.

That afternoon we set off driving on tarmac to the first lodge high on the escarpment of the Great Rift Valley overlooking Lake Manyara.

Day 2 back down the hill to a game drive in the Lake Manyara Park. Lunch back at the lodge then it was gradually broken to us that we had a 5 hour drive ahead into the Serengeti. Most of this drive was on rough gravel roads and quite gruelling. Interesting getting a brief glimpse of Ngorogoro Crater, travelling through Masai lands, then into the Serengeti Park with some game sightings before the welcome relief of the Lodge.

Day 3 a full day game drive in the Serengeti Park – a packed picnic box lunch – this was a great day for animal sightings especially Lions.

Day 4 morning drive across the Serengeti more game sightings and appreciation of the vastness of the open spaces. Out of Serengeti heading back to Ngorongoro, Called in to look over Olduvai Gorge – picnic box lunch there. Visited a Masai Village – was interesting in some respects , but we were generally pretty sceptical about how authentic is was – seemed to be very staged for tourists! Arrived Ngorongoro Lodge in reasonable time in the afternoon. Our driver thus far, Roman, left at this point as his niece had died from Malaria, and replacement, Edward, took over.  Ngorongoro is about 2,400m above sea level and was relatively cooler in the evenings and early mornings – a few sweaters and jackets came out. Most of us reacted with huge surprise though when we got into bed and discovered the hotel staff had put hot water bottles into each bed while we at dinner! It wasn’t that cold for goodness sake but a nice gesture!

Day 5  Drove down into Ngorongoro Crater – 600m deep and about 21 km in diameter – many animals live on the crater floor. Very impressive being in the crater being encircled by the walls which were shrouded in cloud for much of the day – although bright sunshine on the crater floor. A little less exciting than Serengeti but larger herds here of zebra, wildebeest and buffalo. An excellent chance watching a pride of lions keep watch over zebra and wildebeest trying to get to a water hole. Lots of tension and interest. Also made a real effort to spot Rhinos of which there are only 23 in this Park and none in the others we visited. Felt fortunate to see three in the distance – mere specs in the photos though! Back up to the Lodge for late lunch and relaxing afternoon.

Day 6 Set off from Ngorongoro through the clouds and mist and an hour and a half of bumpy rough roads to the Park entrance then back on tarseal. Stopped at a couple of craft shops and journeyed on to the last stop Tarangire National Park and the lodge for lunch. A game drive in the late afternoon. This Park was again not as exciting as Serengeti but many herds of elephants, zebra and baboons.

Day 7 Last few game sightings as drove out through the park then a couple of hours drive on seal back to Arusha – lunch at a hotel – in the garden – very pleasant and agreeable temperature. A slight lack of organisation saw us eventually find the right vehicles for transfers to various onward destinations – mine, a 50 min drive through Arusha and out to Kilimanjaro Airport – unfortunately the most hair raising drive of the whole safari!  Kili is an interesting little airport (big enough runway to take 747s etc from Europe), people who manned security looked like they were asleep but had detector set to ultra sensitive so I had to take off belt, shoes and watch to get through. Immigration appeared very lax – we went through immigration- you could  then could go back ground-side until called then sidle past immigration again – feel sure people could get past without being checked.

Nice flight back up to Nairobi on Precision Air – ATR in new condition – drinks and cashew nuts served on 45 min flight.  Driving into Nairobi was a very interesting experience – luckily fixed price taxi arranged by hotel – rush hour traffic brings the 3 lane ‘motoway’ to a standstill and as soon as traffic stops scores of hawkers weave their way up the traffic offering drinks, fruit, cushions, tools, safety triangles, cell phone top ups…..

Two nights one day at Country Lodge Hotel, Nairobi, Kenya – relaxation before flying to Kigali, Rwanda for cbm work.

The 7 day Simba Safari was booked through NZ agent African Safaris Ltd, using Ranger Safaris in Africa.

I am travelling to Africa firstly to work with aid and development agency cbm New Zealand. Prior to starting the cbm work I booked for a wild life safari in Tanzania. More on both later.

It’s a long way to Africa at any time and I didn’t quite come by the most direct route – but used some Qantas airpoints for upgrades on the Auckland Sydney Hong Kong sector, then Emirates to Dubai and down to Nairobi (so can stop over in Dubai on the way home), then local flight to Kilimanjaro, Tanzania. Left Auckland 5.30 am Monday 14th  arrived hotel in Arusha Tanzania 7.00pm Tuesday 15th. All in all a good journey – Emirates were particularly helpful both in Hong Kong and Nairobi making sure my bag transferred to the onward flights without me having to clear customs and retrieve etc. Hong Kong is a huge airport especially walking from end of one pier to the next! Dubai is very very hot – especially as had to disembark and embark onto tarmac and bus to terminal – very suprising that Emirates couldn’t find space for their own flights at the piers of their nice new terminal.